Fermentation, the First Step Towards Champagne

The harvest may be over, but for the Vigneron, the work has only just begun.

Once picked, the grapes are quickly brought to the cellar and pressed to extract the grape must, the fresh juice that will eventually become wine. Musts from different parcels and grape varieties are generally kept separate: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier each bring their own character, and keeping them apart gives the winemaker greater precision when crafting the future Cuvée.

But before we can talk about bubbles, there is one essential step: the first alcoholic fermentation.

From Grape Must to Wine: The First Fermentation

Alcoholic fermentation is the process that transforms grape must into wine. Yeasts consume the sugars naturally present in the must and convert them primarily into alcohol and carbon dioxide, while also producing a wide range of compounds that contribute to the wine’s aromatic profile.

It is an active stage of winemaking: the must changes rapidly, developing aromas, structure and new layers of character. But above all, fermentation temperature and the vessel used can have a significant influence on the final wine.

The length of the first fermentation depends on the yeasts used and the winemaker’s choices, but it generally takes several weeks.

And this is where things start to get interesting. Which vessel is used for fermentation, and how can that choice influence the wine’s aromas, texture and structure?

Stainless Steel: Precision and Freshness

Stainless steel is one of the most widely used materials in modern winemaking. It is neutral, meaning it does not impart aromas to the wine, and allows for precise temperature control. This helps preserve freshness, fruit character and a direct expression of the terroir.

The result tends to be precise, linear and vibrant, allowing the character of the grapes to remain at the forefront.

In simple terms: when the goal is to let the wine express itself without strong influence from the vessel, stainless steel is an excellent tool.

Wood: Structure and Complexity

Fermentation can also take place in wood, using barrels or larger wooden vessels. Unlike stainless steel, wood allows a slow exchange of oxygen, known as micro-oxygenation, which can contribute to the wine’s structure and complexity.

The result can be a wine that feels broader, deeper and more layered, with greater texture and roundness.

Depending on the type and origin of the wood, how it has been worked and toasted, the age of the barrel and how it is used, delicate notes of spice, vanilla and dried fruit may also emerge. In fine Champagne, the aim is not necessarily to taste the wood, but to use it as a tool to add depth and dimension to the wine.

Terracotta: A More Unusual Approach

Another, less common approach is terracotta.

Like wood, terracotta is porous and allows a slow exchange of oxygen. The key difference is that, when untreated, it tends to be much more neutral aromatically than wood. The wine can therefore benefit from gentle oxygen exposure without taking on the flavours associated with oak.

The result can be vibrant, pure and closely connected to its origin, which is why terracotta is often reserved for small-scale vinifications or particularly distinctive cuvées.

Three Vessels, Three Expressions

The choice of vessel is therefore not simply a technical decision. It is one of the tools through which the Vigneron chooses how to interpret the characteristics of their grapes.

1. Stainless steel → freshness, precision, purity
2. Wood → structure, depth, complexity
3. Terracotta → authenticity, energy, terroir expression

There is no single “better” choice. Nor is it necessarily an exclusive one: the Vigneron may choose to vinify wines destined for the same future Cuvée in two, or even several, different types of vessels, before bringing together wines with complementary characteristics.

The freshness and precision of stainless steel can therefore meet the depth of wood, while terracotta can complement and interact with either of the other vessels. It is a way of highlighting the different facets of the grapes while enhancing the character and complexity of the future Cuvée.

And What Happens After Fermentation?

The first fermentation is only the beginning. From here, the wine enters a new stage where time, lees ageing and cellar choices will continue to shape its structure, complexity and character.

And while we raise a glass to Champagnes from past harvests, the Vignerons are already at work creating the Cuvées that will tell the story of the 2026 vintage.